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1. I'm coming to Alaska in June. We're taking a
cruise up the Inside Passage, then visiting Denali National Park. What
kind of clothing should we pack?
To really enjoy the incredible scenery and wildlife
viewing opportunities you are going to encounter, you'll need to get
outside a lot. Even in the height of summer, Alaska can be rainy and
cool. There's no need to bring winter parkas in June, but you should
have layers of warm clothing and a waterproof outer layer. You'll be
able to handle almost anything with a wool sweater, a warm
Polarfleece-type jacket, and a sturdy rain suit. Depending on the
conditions, you can wear any combination of those garments, or, if it's
really cold and wet, all three. If you'll be spending a lot of time on
the water or camping out, a hat and gloves aren't a bad idea, too.
Everyone who comes to Alaska should pack good walking or hiking
shoes--crosstrainers are great for hiking. Of course, bring some warm
weather clothes, too. Highs in the mid-70s are not unusual in June.
2. We're trying to decide between a small- and a
large-ship cruise. What do you recommend?
The issues to consider are the level of comfort you
need and the degree of your interest in Alaska's outdoors, scenery and
wildlife. The big ships offer every conceivable amenity, including
discos, movie theaters, swimming pools and the like. If none of that
has anything to do with Alaska, the passengers don't seem to mind--they
have most of their fun on the ship itself, with short, scripted and
fairly crowded visits to the towns along the way. Two of the large ship
lines, Princess
and Holland America also own hotels, buses and other
facilities to add on a land-based package tour at the beginning or end
of a voyage. My choice, however, would be a small ship cruise. Although
lacking all the fancy attractions of a floating city, the boats are
perfectly comfortable. More importantly, they see more of Alaska,
getting closer to the wildlife and sights and allowing passengers more
time in the outdoors. Two of the best are Alaska
Sightseeing/Cruise West, which has its own shore tour operation,
and Alaska's
Glacier Bay Tours and Cruises, which specializes in Glacier Bay
National Park.
3. I want to catch salmon and halibut when I come
to Alaska. What's the best time of year to visit?
Any summer month is good for halibut (winter would work
too, if the fishermen didn't mind freezing their fingers). The big
flatfish live on the bottom and seem little influenced by what's going
on up above. For salmon fishing, however, you must meet the runs of
fish returning to the rivers to spawn. A run can be as short as a week
of peak fishing in each stream for each of the five species of Pacific
salmon, and when that week happens varies in every stream. With
Alaska's thousands of salmon streams, there's salmon to be caught
somewhere all summer and into the fall, but you need to be in the right
place at the right time. You can get much of that information from the
excellent website and free regional fishing guides put out by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. They even sell
fishing licenses on line. King and red salmon (also known as chinook
and sockeye) generally come in the first half of the summer, and
silvers (or coho) later in the summer and in the fall. Going with a
guide or visiting a fishing lodge improves your chances. A booking
agency in Anchorage called Sport Fishing Alaska specializes in setting up
those trips.
4. Is it possible to see the Northern Lights in the
summertime?
Not really. Sometimes we see a hazy green glow in the
summer, but not the colorful, psychedelic spectacle that shows up in
winter. Summer's midnight sun is the culprit. In Fairbanks, at the
latitude where the best aurora viewing begins, the sky is light all
night in midsummer, with the sunset and sunrise separated by only two
hours of twilight glow on the longest day of the year (June 21). A
wintertime visitor season has developed there based on the stunning
auroral displays that come many winter nights, and the University of Alaska's
Geophysical Institute is a world center for the study of the
phenomenon. Check out their website for aurora predictions, and Alaska
earthquake and volcano information, too. If you don't want to come when
it's really cold and snowy, the best compromise is a visit in
September, when the skies darken enough to allow occasional aurora
sightings. The weather may be cool, but the yellow leaves and
rust-colored tundra are gorgeous at that time of year.
5. How much time should we allow for a driving
vacation to Alaska?
A drive to Alaska is a great adventure, but it takes a
long time. I wouldn't consider it with less than a month of vacation to
justify all the time on the road. The driving distance from Seattle to
Anchorage is some 2,400 miles, mostly on two-lane roads of spotty
quality. It's theoretically possible to do it in two or three days, but
that wouldn't be my idea of a vacation. Allow five days each way. Some
of the drive is spectacular, but many hours of it pass tediously
through brush and trees. Of course, it's remote country, fit only for a
reliable vehicle and a prepared party. Pick up a copy of The Milepost,
published by Morris Communications, at a book store before going; it
gives mile-by-mile driving instructions and advertising listings from
every motel and greasy spoon on the way. A winter drive isn't advisable
without survival equipment to keep you safe for a day in case of a
breakdown in temperatures of -[minus] 40°F. Taking the Alaska Marine
Highway ferries up the Inside Passage cuts the drive to a more
reasonable length, and it's a great way to see some of Alaska's most
beautiful shores and quaint towns that aren't connected by road to the
outside world. But it still takes 72 hours to ride the ferry from
Bellingham, Washington, to Haines or Skagway, where you rejoin the
highway, and for the same price as bringing your car on board you could
rent a car for two weeks and leave your own car at home. (You can also
start in Prince Rupert, B.C., cutting the ferry ride in half; more
sailings are available from Prince Rupert, too.) If possible, plan a
few days in towns along the way on the ferry. Depending on your
interests, you can stop off in Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka,
or Juneau.
6. What is the best destination to see browns bears
for visitors on a budget?
Those incredible pictures you see of brown bear
catching salmon from a waterfall come from a few places in Alaska where
bear viewing is absolutely fool-proof: Katmai National Park, Kodiak
Island, the McNeil River State Game Sanctuary, and Pack Creek, on
Admiralty Island. Each of these places requires a float plane or other
travel that cost at least several hundred dollars per person to get to
where the bears congregate. Denali National Park doesn't have the same near
certainty of seeing bear, but I've never missed seeing at least one
grizzly on a trip into the park, and these bus safaris cost only around
$20 per person. The attraction isn't an exceptional concentration of
bear--Denali's Interior location isn't especially rich
biologically--but the National Park Service has managed the park well
to protect wildlife viewing opportunities. That means the only way into
the park is on a many-hour-long bus ride, as private cars would spoil
this park just as they have so many in the Lower 48. Without being
intimidated by tourists in cars, the animals carry on naturally while
buses drive by. Also, most of the park is above treeline, so you can
see the bears from a great distance.
7. We want to visit Southeast Alaska, but we don't
want to take a cruise. What are the options?
Many visitors seem to think cruising is the only way to
Southeast Alaska, but, of course, that's not how residents get around.
They fly or take the ferries operated by the state's Alaska Marine
Highway System. Two popular Southeast communities, Haines and
Skagway, are connected to the road system, but most of the towns have
no highway links, including Juneau, Alaska's capital, Ketchikan, its
fourth largest city, and Sitka, the Russian capital and most historic
town in Alaska. Each of these, plus Wrangell, Petersburg and Gustavus,
is served daily by jets operated by Alaska Airlines, and commuter airlines connect
them and smaller towns. One great way to do a Southeast Alaska trip is
to fly into a hub on Alaska Airlines then explore with the ferry and
the smaller airlines. The ferry takes longer, but is less expensive and
the passing scenery is unforgettable. The boats have cabins, which you
should book well ahead for summer trips, and restaurants that serve
meals (although bringing a picnic aboard is a good idea for added
variety and flexibility). You can even camp on deck, setting up your
tent behind the top deck solarium. (Bring a roll of duct tape to hold
down your tent in case you get a windy spot.) Bicycles and cars are for
rent in each little town along the way, and you can book fishing trips,
sea kayaking and whale watching tours in almost any of the larger
communities.
8. We want to see the Arctic and learn about
Eskimos and their culture, but we aren't interested in roughing it. Any
advice?
Two Arctic communities, Kotzebue and Barrow, offer
encounters with their Inupiat culture for visitors who only have a day
or two to spend and want to learn in comfort. Each town will surprise
you with a fascinating mix of traditional Eskimo culture and modern
lifestyles. Barrow, the farthest north community in North America, also
offers the chance to stick your toe in the Arctic Ocean at an extreme
tip of human settlement in the Arctic. They've recently built an
impressive Inupiat Heritage Center, which serves both as a museum and
as a cultural center for local artisans to share and demonstrate their
work. Tundra Tours (800-882-8478 or 907-852-3900), a Native-owned
company, offers bus tours of the town and rides to the ocean, including
a visit to the heritage center, dancing and a blanket toss. In
Kotzebue, in Northwest Alaska, Native-owned Tour Arctic (907-442-3441)
offers a daily tour through the community and visit to their NANA
Museum of the Arctic, where they show a high-tech slide show and
demonstrate dancing and the blanket toss. You can add on a side trip to
Nome or to a smaller Bush village from Kotzebue. Alaska Airlines
Vacations offers each of the trips as packages including air fare
from Anchorage or Fairbanks. Expect to pay around $400 for the day
trip. Know in advance, however, that these are scripted package tours.
9. Which summer month has the best weather for a
visit to Alaska?
Alaska's summer is brief, with the peak visitor season
lasting only eight weeks, from mid-June to mid-August. June tends to be
dry, but in the north and a high elevations the snow doesn't melt until
late in the month. Night time temperatures can be cool. August is the
wettest of the summer months, although warmer than June. July is the
driest and warmest month of the summer, but also the time when you'll
find the highest prices and the biggest crowds. The shoulder season
extends into May and September, and, increasingly, October. May can be
gorgeous, but you can run into cool weather, muddy and snowy hiking
trails, and some attractions that don't open until Memorial Day.
September also can be crisp and spectacular. The leaves turn yellow and
the tundra red, making the Interior and the Arctic their prettiest.
It's also a rainy month, however, and camping can be frosty. October is
really pushing it. Snow often comes at mid-month in the Southcentral
and Interior regions. Cruises still run in Southeast Alaska, but the
rainy season there is in full swing.
10. I'm interested in earning some money for
college while traveling in Alaska next summer. What are the job
opportunities?
Many a college student has paid for a trip to Alaska
and a little bit of tuition by working in an Alaska fish cannery.
Hillary Clinton recalled her college days on the slime line when she
visited Alaska a few years ago. It's hard, smelly work, gutting and
cutting fish for long hours of overtime, but you can certainly bank
some of your earnings by camping out or sleeping in a company
dormitory. Working at sea is not a good idea. The factory processors
are miserable, dangerous places to work, and quitting is impossible
until they return to shore. Fishing boats rarely hire inexperienced
deck hands, so your chances of becoming a commercial fisherman for a
summer are small. Many hotels, tour companies, restaurants and other
visitor industry employers hire large numbers of summer workers. It's a
good idea to line something up, or at least have a good idea of what's
available, before coming north. The best place to start is the Alaska
Department of Labor Job Service website. They offer listings by
region and specialty.
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